10.06.08
Palate and sensory training
The journey back from a learning experience is one of my favourite times. It provides inspiration in light-year mileage.
Thinking back to the weekend’s Palate Training and Sensory Analysis of Coffee workshop I attended, I’m happy to have consciously and singularly slurped the likes of Linalool, 4-ethyl guaiacol and Cathecol and committed their organoleptic properties to memory. Happier still, I finally found the compound responsible for that Islay single-malt signature: 4-ethyl phenol. Mmm, band-aid!
Looks unassuming. All the action’s in the palate!
During one of the breaks I discussed mouthfeel with the presenter Lindsay Corby as the journal articles I have referring to mouthfeel in espresso expounded on 6 identified mouthfeel categories. He pointed to the SCAA Coffee Flavour Wheel poster on the wall.
“In the wine industry, we have that on mouthfeel alone,†he quipped.
After I was able to pick my jaw from the floor, I told him it would be interesting to discuss his mouthfeel wheel within the context of coffee. Next workshop perhaps.
Jill Adams’s presentation on the various cultivation, harvesting and processing methods employed in Sumatra, Bali, PNG, Ethiopia and Hawaii, and the subsequent comparative cupping of 5 different varieties (out of many more) being cultivated in Aceh, struck a very loud chord.
Firstly, the slideshow on the varying cultivation and processing methods spoke volumes on how the unique practices evolved in response to the climactic, geographical, cultural and socio-economic conditions specific to regions. Conversely, coffee has also changed many communities, and it continues to, for better and worse. The dry-processing of Harars, for example, is quite intertwined with the cultural and social aspects of the communities involved that there would surely be repercussions should we, in consuming countries, start demanding washed versions of this coffee.
It was most fascinating to see the different varieties in tree form being cultivated in Aceh. So different they looked from each other. We cupped 5 different varieties, each one with a fully-washed and a wet-hulled version.
This one I like. Since we’re only provided with codes, I name thee “Lovely Long Legs”.
One sample stood out on the cupping table for me. It was fully-washed but it was quite hefty in the mouth as only a Sumatra could offer. It had most excellent balance with satisfying acidity and lasting deep notes of cocoa and almonds. I wonder what Jill plans to do with the rest of this sample.
Andy Freeman’s offering of the Malawi Mzuzu Kanga Gesha, rendered 5 different ways was most intriguing and proves that experimentation and crafting are truly thriving among roasters. Everything else the same, the only variation among the 5 was the profile between equalisation (or bottom-out, or turn-temp, however one may prefer to call it) and first crack. Most interesting and distinct cup outcomes.
Hmm…
Hmm…
The days to come look smattered with retrospective fat-chewing and light-bulb moments.