01.18.06
The Tyranny of Balance (My Love Affair with the Kenya Part II)
Sorry it’s been a while since the last log. When one is in the throes of an illicit love affair, one can get carried away, just a bit.
Let me tell you more about this Kenya…
It languors between the end of first crack to a few seconds before second crack. As it cools in the tray a sample bean breaks into a resonant snappy tart blackcurrant. Think Ribena, only crunchy.
Within the first 24hours it is super tart and dry as if it only has its aromatic skin to offer. So one waits for its succulent flesh to fill out. But it hibernates for 5 days until the 6th day…hello gorgeous abundance!
I break into song. The hills are alive with splats of berries. I must show others…
“It’s great, I can see the berries, for sure, but it’s too bright,” say one.
“I can see why this bean is attractive but many out there will misconstrue the brightness as sour,” says another.
“Wow, it’s so clear, but for espresso, it’s not balanced.”
“Not balanced.”
Not balanced. That was the verdict. After endless superlatives, the caveat is flagged. It lacks balance.
Who the hell invited balance to this party?
Eventhough I am not attempting to achieve balance with this bean, and I make espresso in full awarenss of its berry brightness, unfortunately, apparently, an important aspect of espresso is balance - both in taste and tactile qualities.
Eventhough I would like to highlight the ashtonishing berry qualities per se as the main feature of this bean, it will not be appreciated for its lack of the other qualities that will deem it balanced.
The vacpot isn’t governed by such rules so I can take my Kenya there, but not to an espresso machine.
I look for the rule maker to lodge an appeal. No one owns up. The rule stands. And IT JUST IS.
So, excuse me, I’ll have to introduce myself to balance.