08.14.05
The Last of a Great Sumatra
Last year I bought Sumatra Blue Batak as the Indonesian component of a blend. My initial cupping notes were nondescript - good body, earthy tones - typical of a Sumatra, and it pulled its weight in the blend. But it wasn’t spectacular.
When I started developing other blends, the Blue Batak, having nothing special to offer, got relegated storeroom duties sitting quietly and cooly in an airtight foodgrade barrel.
Then, last March, when the Sulawesi was underperforming and giving inexplicable ashy tones, I reluctantly recalled the Blue Batak. My, my…opening the container I was greeted by a cool rush of syrup-soaked cherries, on the verge of fermentation, but not yet there.
The roasted product was just as revelatory. I roasted it to the beginning of rolling second crack, with no oil or sheen on the beans. I was blown over by the sweetness - what’s that, molasses, brown sugar, gula melacca? The aroma was morphing almond oil, butter, and coconut.
As always, I was alone when this discovery happened. Thankfully there were still plenty of greens left and quite a few folks enjoyed the magic of this late bloomer.
But now, it’s over. I just roasted the last batch and all I have left are memories and a hope that the coming crop is just as good.
